Weaving a fashion sensibility: on the evolution of Indian fashion

At the Blenders Pride Fashion Tour 2017, Abraham & Thakore (A&T) showcased their collection at The Leela Palace. A&T draws from Indian design and craft, and has, since 1992, when the label was first launched by bringing together the synergies of modern fashion and lifestyle.

David Abraham says the collection they created for Fashion Tour revolved around how they could use block prints individually on a garment. "We wanted to emphasise on the technique of block printing. We have used black-and-white and simple graphic forms."

When asked how Indian fashion has evolved since the 1990s, Abraham says: "When we started, there was no Indian fashion. It started when the Indian government established NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology)," says Abraham, who, along with Rakesh Thakore, is a graduate of the National Institute of Design (NID). "back in 1992, we launched and sold in London. But now India is going to be the most important market, We have a huge youth population and people are very interested in fashion. And we have observed, since we have worked for such a long time with exports that the real growth is happening in the East, not the West."

But then fashion often seems to be only for a section of society, not always for the masses, to this Abraham says: "The designer level is basically a small-scale production, the opposite of mass production. And you have to look at the economics of it. It's not cheap! The survival of luxury markets is essential to patronising weavers. Also there is quite often a misunderstanding of the term fashion. Fashion is what people are wearing on the streets. I am against this elitist interpretation.” Rakesh Thakore, who is the quieter of the two, adds: "I think we need to educate and make people more aware on fashion." The duo reminisces over their NID days where they specialised in textiles. "It was a very practical and hands-on experience. The first thing you have to understand is the yarn. It's a natural part of the discipline," says Abraham.

Abraham, who stayed in Brunton Road in Bengaluru before he moved to NID, says the city, "has changed beyond recognition."

But he doesn't focus on its flaws, "It's a modern and hip city. Many res

taurants are first launched here," says Abraham. As for what their interests are, Abraham laughs and says: "In life I enjoy the moment, and fashion is not my life! I don't spend all my time on fashion."

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