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Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones goes back to Africa for menswear inspiration

Africa was the theme in more ways than one at Louis Vuitton’s menswear fashion show as the Paris sun scorched shades-wearing celebrity attendees Kate Moss and David Beckham.

Inside the courtyard venue at the Palais Royal, Moss wore a marbled Louis Vuitton silk shirt and pants and posed for cameras under the sun, followed by a rather wintry-looking Beckham in a black knit sweater.

Miami Heat star Dwyane Wade, 34, appears naked on the cover of ESPN The Magazine’s latest Body Issue. But in the Paris heat it was his clothes the three-time NBA champion was rocking at Thursday’s Louis Vuitton front row – alongside the NFL’s Victor Cruz and soccer star Rio Ferdinand.

“Today I’ve relaxed and chilled with my Louis V,” he said, wearing a Vuitton suit with chic coloured markings.

Wade said he’s excited about the current sports-infused trends in menswear styles.

“I love it as an athlete. It’s a great moment when sports are intertwined with fashion,” he said.

It made for a richly coloured voyage through exotic African skins, textiles and its civilisations and a very vibrant spring show.

Mohair sweaters with “springbok” patterns speckled the catwalk in red and brown – one of several animal prints – while khaki sleeveless shirts were rendered with dyed twill and a monogram Makassar collar. The navy and white zebra-printed calf leather briefcase was a signature bag.

Beyond the Africa reference, there was more than a hint of Jones’ London roots, as he acknowledged. “There’s always something a little London hidden somewhere, though. This time it is the influence of punk - albeit via Africa,” he said.

Meanwhile, in typically wacky fashion, American designer Rick Owens’ collection was titled Walrus.

Plays on proportion in black and dove grey with flashes of vivid yellow came on male, and the occasional female, models.

Torsos were lifted upwards with cropped jackets with billowing sleeves, matches by the exaggerated portions of the pants. Fabrics swirled with the lightness of silk taffetas and washed silk gazar, or fell heavily with thick industrial cotton.

And T-shirts Owens described as “mega-draped as irrationally as possible” created striated volumes like sinuous muscles and tendons.

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Kirjoitettu Saturday 25.06.2016

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